Kolkata is a city where towering colonial-era clubs serving steak and kidney pie merge shadows with local stands serving kachoris and gulab jamuns. A city where diners eat everywhere: from quick, flaky kati rolls on the street, and driving to Tangra for bowls of noodles cooked by the local Chinese for decades, to waiting patiently in long lines for tables at iconic Park Street restaurants.
The popular food website Eater recently declared Kolkata as one of the top ten food destinations in the world for 2023 — the only Indian city to make it to the list.
If you are planning a trip, where should you eat. We ask Kolkata insiders, chefs, and restaurateurs to share their favourite places.
Chef Sirajul Rahaman, Masterchef at The Novotel Hotel, Kolkata
Having lived and worked across India, I believe that few states bring to the table the kind of diversity which Kolkata promises and that too at pocket-friendly prices, says Chef Sirajul.
Sorshe Ilish | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
He adds, “I personally love the Bengali food at Siddheshwari Ashram in the New Market Area. Their kosha mangsho, malai curry and sorshe ilish/bhapa Ilish. If I crave kebabs, I go to ITC’s Peshawari restaurant. For street food, I head to Kusum’s rolls; for phuchkas, I go to Lindsay Street and for sweets, I head to Chappan Bhog.”
Doma Wang, owner of Blue Poppy Restaurants in Kolkata
Doma‘s favourite phuchkas are made by a vendor at AE block Salt Lake —outside Sen Mahashay, the mithai shop. Doma who is called Kolkata’s queen of momo, says she also likes to frequent Victoria’s outside Vardaan market for their pakoras. She adds that the dahi vada outside AC Market on Theatre Road is also a must have.
Panipuri or phuchka | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“The other day I was walking down Burra Bazaar and on one side of the street there were shops selling chhola bhatura, karaishutir kachuri (kachori made with the first sweet peas of the season) with sabzi and hot gulab jamun. On the other side of the road, kebabs and other non-veg treats were being made. In ₹60 I had a full meal and it’s something I would recommend.“
“I also love Bengali food. So, when I have friends over we go to 6 Ballygunge Place and for Chinese we go to Kafulok in Tangra,’‘ she adds. Her other recommendations include brain masala at Kwality on Park Street, dal and chana masala in Punjabi Rasoi and steamed wantons for breakfast at Ah Leung.
Mazilat Fatima of Manzilat’s, Kolkata
Chilli Chicken | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Manzilat’s go-to biriyani joint is Mezbaan, Ripon Street. The restauranteur adds that her children relish the Lucknowi-style biriyani there. “Mezbaan’s chef was originally from Lucknow. He is no more but his sons are continuing his legacy and the biryani tastes the same,” she says. Second on the biriyani list is Zam Zam, on Park Circus, popular for its greasy yet light-on-the-stomach mutton biriyani.
My second option would be Chinese from Tangra’s Beijing or Tung Fong in Park Street (same owners). Tung Fong has chilli garlic pepper chicken, it’s a dry fry starter( I love the flavour of garlic ), and chilli chicken dry. Chilli chicken is available everywhere but theirs is the most authentic flavour, I feel. “
Peter Tseng, Soy Soi, Chennai
Although a resident of Chennai, Peter returns to his home, Kolkata, during the Chinese New Year. His top picks are Golden Joy for Chinese and Kasturi for Dhakai/Bangladeshi food.
Steamed dimsums | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Peter elaborates, “My cousins and I usually have a feast at Golden Joy, whose flavours, I think, come closest to the Chinese food we make at home. We usually have a set menu of steamed duck, steamed fish and steamed dimsums on the table. That apart, we have a few standard haunts like Arsalan for Biriyani and Kasturi for Bangladeshi food because in terms of layer profile and texture of dishes, Kasturi stands out.”
