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Aroma on the ramp
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Designers are looking at Indian crafts to woo the outside world at the LIFW
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SUBTLE STYLE: Artificial glitter is making way for natural embellishments and fabrics, as in this creation by MonaPali
With brand India making a splash on the world stage, Indian crafts have found a lifeline. Known for their craft-inspired works, designers Mona and Pali and Niki Mahajan are likely to draw more attention at the forthcoming Lakme India Fashion Week. Kolkata-based MonaPali has used wool as an embellishment. Niki Mahajan has completely done away with sequins. Another young designer, Deepika Govind has worked out `aroma-filled' fabrics for the Week. "We don't need any inspiration from the West. There is so much craft in India to get motivated," says Pali Sachdev of the MonaPali label, known for putting Madhubani paintings and Worli work on saris.
"These days you can see girls wearing churidar pants on the streets of Los Angeles. You just have to give a certain styling to the Indian silhouettes to make them internationally acceptable," says Niki. "This time I have given emphasis to thread work, and instead of sequins I have used mukesh and badla work for embellishments," adds Niki, who would be presenting the Spring-Summer look for 2006. Niki maintains bright colours, especially pink, will remain in fashion, but people no longer want glitter. "They want textured embroidery on Western outfits."
Woollen motifs
Pali concurs. The woollen floral motifs in her layered skirts don't shine. "We have used silk strips to knit the corset and blouses. This is something which has hardly been tried before," she claims. Another first is the use of block prints, which gives an impression of screen-printing. "This hand work has greater appeal than screen-printing, which is just a technical thing. We have also used six different blocks to print in the same area without losing the symmetry."
The Bangalore-based Deepika has given a technological edge to the rich Indian textiles. In association with Resil, a company specialising in fabric and garment finishes, she has blended silk with tencel and modal - a natural fibre from the bark of the trees. "I have always experimented with fabrics, like mixing silk with lycra to create satin stretch. Modal creates a blend that is softer and supple. By giving specific treatments we have added aromatic and anti-perspirant qualities to the fabric." Deepika avers everything is eco-friendly. While Pali has limited herself to Indo-Western, Niki has almost completely shrugged off her traditional tag as far as silhouettes are concerned. "I am offering kimonos, kaftans and long kurtas which could be used as separates with stockings or matched with skirts and pants."
They agree that craft could no longer remain for the elite. While Pali doesn't want to disclose prices, Niki says her outfits cost between Rs.1700 and 10,000. "Actually, now our work has become more cost effective. People are no more interested in buying one-off pieces. With fashion stores showing faith in designers, now I can make 20 pieces of a kind," says Niki.
ANUJ KUMAR
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