In Nungambakkam, eateries are a dime a dozen—some have been around for a while, while others are new. But the recently opened Una Villa is different. It’s housed in a 60-year-old building, giving it a distinct charm.
“This is a mid-century home with great structure. Sustainability and repurposing were our main focuses. The house itself is repurposed, and we even reused the terrazzo flooring that was demolished during the renovation,” says Denver Pereira one of the architects behind the project.
Interior at Una Villa | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Una Villa, a part of Kothari Industrial Corporation Limited (KICL), was designed by architects Denver and Anisha Murali with the aim of self-sustainability. Landscaping architect Varna Sashidar has brought around 100 native edible and flowering plants including local spinach varieties from Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry for the restaurant.
The restaurant’s ambience is simple, yet charming, featuring colourful, old-school knick-knacks and art pieces sourced from artisans in Mahabalipuram, Karaikudi, Rajasthan and Kolkata. The outdoor seating area is especially inviting, offering a peaceful escape from the chaos of Nungambakkam Road just on the other side of the compound wall.
Outdoor seating at Una Villa | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
“We preserved the Noni tree that was originally in the garden, and we’ve planted several vegetables, fruit trees, and local spinach varieties. Although we still depend on vendors for some ingredients, we hope to grow more of our own produce soon,” Denver shares.
Ceaser Salad 2022 | Photo Credit: Thamodaran B
However, the sustainability ethos doesn’t extend to the menu, which sources ingredients with a higher carbon footprint. For instance, the smoked duck is flown in from Thailand, and the lamb comes from New Zealand. Chef Elamparuthi Arumugam however, has curated a produce-focused, modern menu.
My first dish was their take on the classic Caesar salad. Una Villa’s Caesar Salad 2022 features fried chicken instead of the usual grilled variant, accompanied by a romaine purée, shaved parmesan, crisp lettuce shards, and capers. While the chicken was a bit under-seasoned on its own, it paired well with the other elements on the plate.
Baked brie and cherry | Photo Credit: Thamodaran B
Although the restaurant’s name, Una Villa, plays on the Tamil words Unavu Illam (house of food), only a few Tamil dishes—mor karunai, rasam, seeraga samba mutton biryani, and mushroom and potato chukka—feature on their menu. The rest is global fusion, with burgers, pizzas, and pastas.
Hummus bread | Photo Credit: Thamodaran B
Then came an unexpected hit: the Hummus Bread, made with nutty, garlic-free hummus, paired with a sweet and mildly spicy Schezwan maple syrup inside cloudy, grilled pitas.
Ellipse onion lamb | Photo Credit: Ananyaa Desikan
Chef Elamparuthi’s innovative lamb dish, ellipse onion lamb had tulips of onion layers, each filled with minced lamb are placed on a layer of Asian-spiced sauce. It looked attractive, but there was no warning about how dangerously hot it was . Tempted by the presentation, I took a generous bite, and immediately regretted it. The lamb filling was scalding.
Mor karunai | Photo Credit: Annayaa Desikan
The mor karunai was a comforting bowl of home-style tomato rice, topped with a pool of thick, tangy mor kuzhambu and a lattice stack of crispy fried karunai kizhangu (elephant foot yam) sticks. A final tempering of mustard seeds and curry leaves, poured over the top, added a fragrant touch to every bite.
Chef Elamparuthi, aiming to cater to late-night diners, mentioned plans to keep the restaurant open 24x7. “There are a lot of restobars in and around the area. When party is over, they will need a place to go to and have a hearty meal. We’re focusing on comforting options like soups and rice bowls that can be enjoyed anytime,” he explained.
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Tiramisu roll cake | Photo Credit: Ananyaa Desikan
I ended my meal with their Tiramisu roll cake. It comes with a small filler filled with sweet coffee syrup that you can press into the cake, adding a fun, interactive element. The dessert was rich, moist, and balanced the bitterness of coffee with just the right amount of sweetness.
Denver and Anisha also share that this Una Villa is just the first of many. KICL plans to replicate this concept across other cities, converting old homes into self-sustaining restaurants that reflect the unique local culture and flavours.
A meal for two costs ₹1000. Una Villa is at 24/14, Tirumurthy Nagar, Uthamar Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam
Published - September 19, 2024 11:33 am IST
