Founder of production house The Artist Collective, Akhil Iyer and psychologist Shriya Narayan made Mumbai their home a couple of years ago. The couple, born and raised in Bengaluru, missed their dosas so much that they decided to venture into the hospitality space and open Benne, a café in Bandra that specialises in what is colloquially known as Bengaluru style Benne dosa. This type of dosa, clarifies Akhil, should not be confused with the popular Davangere Benne dosa, which has a more-watery batter and contains puffed rice. “In our dosas, we use IR8 dosa rice (a variety of rice), poha, fenugreek, and chana dal,” he says, adding that they have plans to expand the menu by including Davangere Benne dosa as well.
Benne, which translates to butter in Kannada, serves different varieties of benne dosas, idlies, vadas and beverages including filter coffee, iced filter coffee, and more. “Growing up, we had darshinis (quick-serving food joints in Bengaluru mostly serving South Indian fare) near our respective homes that served clean, simple, vegetarian food and Benne is an ode to that,” says 36-year-old Akhil, adding, “It’s our way of bringing a bit of Bengaluru to Mumbai.”
Housed inside a 150-square feet space in Bandra with a wooden door and bird shaped wall-decorations crafted out of banana leaves, the minimalist interiors feature a small community table and alcove seating. Through a glass panel separating the kitchen, chefs — all trained in Bengaluru — can be seen expertly ladling dosa batter on the custom-made 300-kg cast iron plate as well as making soft idlis and crispy vadas. A self-ordering kiosk lets the customers choose and place their orders.
The food arrives on the table in sustainable cutlery made from areca leaves. A plate of vadas, another of ghee podi idli and of course, the Benne plain dosa. Unlike some cafés, Benne stays true to the Bengaluru tradition of serving dosas only with chutneys, offering a spicy tomato-onion chutney and a refreshing coconut-mint chutney for dipping. The vadas are perfectly spiced with a speckle of black peppers, soft-on-the-inside and crisp-outside.
The ghee podi idli is a marriage of textures — steaming hot and soft idlis drenched in a rich ghee and podi (spice powder) mixture. But we are here for the famous Benne dosa. This beauty arrives with a captivating caramel-golden glow on its crisp exterior, contrasting beautifully with the soft, spongy white interior, almost resembling a honeycomb. It is undeniably rich — a testament to the generous dollop of creamy white butter nestled in the centre. The meal is perfectly complemented by an iced filter coffee, with its slightly bitter notes cutting through the richness of the dosa and providing a refreshing cool-down in Mumbai’s hot and humid climate.
Akhil and Shriya are overjoyed by the positive response they have received from customers and industry colleagues alike. Currently open for a few evenings a week, they plan to expand their hours, menu, and operational days soon. Benne is a delightful find for those seeking a taste of authentic Bengaluru in the heart of Mumbai.
Benne is at 16th Road, Bandra West, Mumbai. A meal for two costs ₹400