If we take the idea of a dimly lit local bar that serves complimentary peanuts and cornflakes, and elevate it to match contemporary style, we get Machaan Restobar. The cocktails are potent, yet smooth. The starters and side dishes are spicy and familiar, but innovative at the same time.
Even with the brightly marked posters announcing the opening, it takes a minute to find your way to the cosy interiors of this eatery, located at an almost speakeasy-esque location that detaches you from the outer world. “That was the idea. We wanted people to feel like they’re in a hidden location, so they can relax,” says celebrity Chef Koushik who has curated the menu for Machaan.
Karupatti rum smash | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Restaurants that serve fusion food are a dime a dozen. Some hit, but most miss the mark. Chef Koushik seems to have found the key. “I like to keep it simple. Source local ingredients, dig deeper into your knowledge, and figure out what works and what doesn’t,” he says.
The karupatti rum smash, served with a smoking stick of cinnamon is a sweet symphony of palm jaggery and rum that echoes a panakam. It pairs well with the flavour bomb of the curry leaf pesto potato that nobody could stop reaching for, and the mirppakaaya muttai — a fried egg entrée, that is tossed in a spicy green chilli coating and topped with raw onions. Both are best eaten while crispy and hot.
Mangalore chicken uruval | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For the spice lovers, the succulent Mangalore chicken uruval is the best bet. Tender chicken infused with curry leaves and a myriad of spices, is served with a side of mildly sweet Mangalore buns that pairs well with the sweet cocktail murattu kuthu, made with pineapple and coconut water, that looks more innocent than it is with a larger-than-usual measure of rum.
Try the gin and red wine-based kurchi madathapetti, funnily named after the popular Telugu song from the film Guntur Kaaram. It packs quite a punch, so tread lightly and munch on the adipoli beef — which may not be the most tender meat you would find on this menu, but with the flaky parottas, it acts as a familiar companion to your drink. The quick gun murugan vadas, tossed in a spicy podi and served with a pudina chutney are quite addictive, as are the mini nei kozhukattais served with a spicy tomato chutney.
Pallipalayam spaghetti | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
When you are ready to move on to the main course, try the Pallipalayam spaghetti — regional-style chicken cooked in Pallipalayam style, served on a bed of spaghetti flavoured with garlic, chillies, and coriander. While the spaghetti tastes like a spicier version of the Italian classic aglio e olio, Chef Koushik refuses to make the comparison. “I’m not going to name it South Indian aglio e olio just to make it sound appealing. It is a spaghetti with the flavours of Pallipalayam chicken,” he says.
Calling a spade a spade seems to be a common theme, as the main course menu also contains a vendakkai mor kozhambu spaghetti, which he says is an ode to the sevai mor kozhambu combination — but that might be an acquired taste for most.
Chef Koushik | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The in-house, made-from-scratch tajin — a spice mix made of lemon zest, coarsely ground chillies, and salt — is generously sprinkled on many of the entrées. It adds a layer of zing to the heavily spiced, fried dishes that do a great job of soaking up all the alcohol. If that doesn’t do the job, we recommend you pace yourself and end the drinking spree with a tall glass of chilled boondi mor, a spiced yogurt drink complete with loads of mint, coriander, ginger, chillies, and topped with crispy boondi.
If you must end the meal with something sweet, try the chaaklate kaapi cake, but be warned: it is a decadent chocolate cake with hints of coffee, and the portion size is overwhelming. It is quite heavy, and one slice is plenty for a table of four.
Machaan Restrobar is located in Ampa SkyOne on Nelson Manickam road. A meal for two with alcohol costs ₹3,000. For reservations, call +91 9787997870
