Numb lips are perhaps an indicator of a good gelato experience. This means that multiple greedy spoonfuls have been consumed, albeit too quickly with great disregard for an imminent brain freeze. Who can be patient with a gelato? As per science, one should not. After all, it melts faster than the humble ice cream.
While on a quick drive chasing the coast, it is hard to miss the colourful stained glass facade of ECR’s new Stellar Gelato & Cafe. Inside is a happy picture, dunked in pastel pinks and ornate grilles against the backdrop of pastries and rows of gelatos, leaving one with a warm, fuzzy feeling of familiarity. Deeper inside, away from our sight, are metal giants (pasteurisers) that steadily churn out oodles of this smooth dessert in quantities no less than a few kilograms.
An inside view of the cafe
The route frequented by weekend holidaymakers has had no dearth of ice cream spots, but a good gelato is hard to come by. Which is precisely why chef Chindi Varadarajulu of city-favourite Pumpkin Tales and restaurateur Arjun Sethuraman decided to partner with Italian chef Mirko Tognetti to introduce ECR to a range of Italian frozen desserts, including the semifreddo: “Not an ice-cream cake, but a small sponge with meringue and mousse that is frozen, with a little bit of gelato,” explains Chindi. This collaboration led Chindi and Arjun to Italy where they learned to make gelatos from scratch from Tognetti.
French Toast | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas
The menu boasts of some good old favorites from Pumpkin Tales, which is precisely where we start. Pumpkin Tales’ pistachio gelato has for long been a city favourite, and it holds up its name with a balanced creamy texture, and just the right flavour of pistachio, mildly sweet and combined with tiny chunks for the bite.
The strawberry sorbet makes a dramatic entry with its tart sweetness — not one bit overpowering, but every bit refreshing. If you are feeling experimental, stack it up with a scoop of the mango sorbet made from blast-frozen Banganapallis, and dig deep into a towering cone. White chocolate raspberry is another sought after flavor: the sweetness of white chocolate balances the sour pinch of the berries. The gelatos come in three sizes ranging from a single scoop to a three-scoop combination and even sundaes.
Double cheese omelette | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas
While Stellar hopes to make its range of gelatos their identity, the limited brunch menu served till 3pm, offers a great morning fix for long drives. The breakfast burger for instance is impeccably balanced, with a fried egg inside paired with Provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato, and potato wedges. The brioche buns make for an easy bite while the combination of mayonnaise and tomato sauce stops right short of making it greasy.
The rainbow toast is a clear winner: fresh cucumber, cherry tomatoes, red pepper and mushrooms are served on sourdough toast with a dates-walnut-basil-balsamic olive oil dressing. A great way to start the day: not too heavy, not too light, and very fresh. While the French Toast is pleasing to the eye, the chunky brioche is a little dry and eggy, and misses a custard-like consistency in the middle, while the berry compote overshadows the sweetness.
The triple layered chocolate semifreddo | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas
Gelatos and semifreddos aside, Stellar has brioche-gelato sandwiches, pastries, cakes and sourdough-pizzas by the slice. The coffee, in the standard coffee menu of Americanos and flat whites is sourced from Chennai-based Beachville Roastery. Arjun says that there are plans to expand the brunch menu over time.
Though obscene amounts of gelato have been consumed, it is never enough. Moreover, the semifreddo waits for no one [they hold shape for half an hour, we are told]. Its mousse-like texture contrasts the spongy base layer, making for a solid shave with the spoon. The triple-layered chocolate semifreddo is more familiar, and holds the sweetness one might crave for after a meal, while the pistachio one is a comforting dessert for those who prefer only a tiny hint of sweetness.
Stellar Gelato & Cafe is at 110, East Coast Road, Injambakkam. Cost for two (for gelatos) is ₹500 to ₹600, and (for breakfast) is ₹1,000 to ₹1,200.
Published - September 11, 2024 03:49 pm IST
