I have reached an age when everything is too loud. Bars, concerts, and the inevitably rambunctious family sitting beside me at a restaurant. So, I am intrigued when I hear whispers about a speakeasy launching in Chennai. Especially since — for once — it is being curated for a crowd that has outgrown tequila shots, packed dance floors and the thud of techno all night.
The Madras Cocktail Company — shortened to MadCo — is tucked away on a side street and our first challenge is finding it. Once we do, we push open a heavy door to reveal a cosy space lit with soft buttery lights on the ceiling and dominated by a sleek bar.
Santhosh Zachariah Abraham, managing partner of MadCo says, “As a person of around 40 I have reached a stage where I want a space where I can sit, chill and talk. Right now, in Chennai we have either family bar restaurants or hectic night clubs.” MadCo is neither.
A negroni with a spritz of orange zest | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
As his lead bartenders, Vishal and Rohit Rajput, shake up boozy cocktails, one of the waiters sets a plate of crunchy shrimp heads fried in ghee in front of us. The moreish dish is a gutsy choice — it will appeal only to a niche audience. Santhosh shrugs, “That’s fine. We think it’s delicious.”
Charting a defiant path is possible only if you are not targeting a mass audience, and MadCo is deliberately small, with space for just 50 people. Founding partner R V S Kiran, who has spent over a decade in the hotel industry, says they are constantly looking for ways to innovate. “We’re planning to introduce new themes and ideas regularly, keeping it fresh for our guests! Going forward, also expect lots of collabs with the best bars and chefs from across Asia...” he says
“We are a community bar, not a commercial bar,” says Santhosh, adding that they plan to open to just about 25 people in the initial weeks.
A Fiery Amethyst with purple cabbage infused vodka | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For the same reason, the menu, and space are still work in progress: For the past month friends and family have been dropping by with suggestions that are being tested by the young team. Though Vishal and Rohit are only in their early 20s, they have already worked in multiple bars, and are comfortable enough with modern mixology techniques like clarification, fat washing and fermentation to use them judiciously, while still retaining the charm of classic cocktails.
With 60 ml pours, the drinks are heady and largely spirit forward, though there are also fun options like a sweet tiki cocktail called Havana Banana, made with white rum, coconut rum and house-made banana syrup served in an owl shaped glass, or the Lame Duck, made with scotch whisky, oranges, and honey, and served in cheery yellow duck mug.
Since the infusions, cordials and syrups are made in-house, using methods like sous vide, fermentation and dehydration, prep starts a day ahead. “We also make the cocktails in batches, so your first drink and last drink of the night will be the same, no matter how busy the bar gets,” says Santhosh.
The Mallipoo Spritz served with Chinese-ish chilli chicken | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Over the course of an increasingly blurry evening, I try the Suleimani old-fashioned, which is a dark, spiced tea laced with bourbon and sweetened with cinnamon. Followed by a spicy picante, stained purple with cabbage-infused vodka and spiked with jalapeño for an added kick. There is a Mallipoo Spritz as well, a nod to Chennai, made with tequila and a jasmine cordial. They also have all the classics, from a negroni to whisky sour.
Try their potent espresso martinis, inspired by the cheekily named Cafe Ruse next door, also run by the same team. If you insist on being square, there is also a regular alcohol menu with a selection of wine and spirits. No beer on tap, but there will be a couple of bottled options.
Culinary consultant Mathangi Kumar arrives at the table bearing plates of fluffy fingers of brioche, piled with truffle oil scented mushrooms. The menu is imaginative, but realistic, offering small plates of food that go well with alcohol: chicken pakora, a Cheeselings jhalmuri laced with mustard oil, cheese toast and crunchy spring rolls stuffed with haleem.
We also try their five spice chicken wrapped in garlicky chillies, eggs on toast and fried rice tossed with edamame, vegetables and pickle oil. This is thoughtful fusion, merging flavours that work together instead of just creating Instagrammable-food. (Which is honestly a relief, I cannot take any more pull up cakes or Korean cheese buns.)
A suleimani old fashioned served with gongura tempura | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
This is food for grownups.
Glitches will be inevitable with this young bar for older people. The menu is still being tweaked, and will continue to evolve over the next few months. But MadCo is an interesting experiment, and its greatest strength perhaps is an awareness of its flaws: and the declaration that they are open to change.
For reservations and directions DM madco_Chennai on Instagram . Open from 5pm. Closed on Mondays. About ₹3,500 for two
Published - November 15, 2024 02:42 pm IST
