He couldn’t be further away from his mountainous homeland, but Swiss national Stephan Gottet sounds extremely delighted as he describes his myriad journeys through the forgotten heritage sites of southern India.
“I’ve even picked up some Tamil,” says Dr. Gottet, a dentist by profession, as he thanks the photographer with a perfectly timed nandri . Dr. Gottet has been visiting India since 1995, and besides having a keen interest in history and archaeology, is also an accomplished photographer.
The first part of his three-year research on the ancient sacred groves and village gods of Tamil Nadu, was published in German as the 364-page book Heilige Haine – Mysthische Tongfiguren Sudindiens (Sacred groves: Mythical Clay Figures in Southern India), in March.
“Like Greece in Europe, which practiced polytheism, and had the best scholars, in India, Tamil Nadu has had the best of ideologies and arts. That’s why, when I came here for the very first time, it felt like I was returning home. And yes, both Greek and Tamil cultures share the idea of sacred groves,” he had said in an earlier interview.
The book focuses on 15 groves and village temples dedicated to Lord Ayyanar and other deities in Mugaiyur, Naalu Veda Patti, Vilankudi, Koothadi Vayal, Panjathi, Villangattur, Marungapuri, Ooropathi, Devanam Pattinam, Nedungudi, Pethakkon Patti, Kaavalkaranpatti, Karapattu and Narthanmalai which are located in the vicinity of Tiruchi, Nagapattinam, Madurai and Karaikudi.
Dr. Gottet was recently in Tiruchi on a brief stopover to discuss his upcoming projects.
Assisted by his Srirangam-based tour guide and translator B. Rajendran, Dr. Gottet communicates in a mix of German and French.
“I’m planning a monograph on Kaavalkaranpatti, which I feel can be compared to the ‘Via Sacra’ (the sacred path or the main street of ancient Rome leading through several religious sites to the Collosseum),” he says, adding that he had clicked over a thousand photographs of the grove on November 12.
Describing the terracotta horse-lined place of worship, Dr. Gottet says, “You can see the similarities of style in Kaavalkaranpatti and European Gothic art. Like the work of pre-Renaissance artist Giotto, these figures were telling a story.”
In yet another exploration of the syncretism prevalent in Indian folk practices, Dr. Gottet’s second book is related to the wooden chariots built in the style of the Hindu temple ther , but filled with Christian imagery that are still being used by churches in Avoor (Our Lady of Assumption), Vadugarpet (Our Lady of Good Health), Purathakudi (St. Xavier’s Church) and Pullambadi (St. Anne’s Church).
His childhood friend and theologian Hanspeter Ernst, will be helping him to study the iconography that makes the Indian interpretation of Biblical lore unique.
“It’s very interesting to see how these chariots tell people a story,” says Dr. Ernst. “They are usually used during Easter processions, but while they do explain stories from the Bible, some episodes, like The Last Supper, are missing. In the West, The Last Supper is among the most highlighted Biblical story in popular art.”
Clearly intended to be morality tales for a lay audience, most of these stories seem to focus on basic concepts of Good and Evil, says Dr. Ernst. “More than the religion, the images focus on music and dance. Also, there are many local animals such as elephants and lions that find a place in the iconography,” he adds.
Another site that has Dr. Gottet and his team excited is a heritage-rich village called Kuruvinayanapalli in Krishnagiri district. “People here are using terracotta pots, jars that have a clear Etruscan and almost Ottoman touch, which makes it possible that this place is ancient,” says Dr. Gottet.
The Kaavalkaranpatti monograph will include a small section on this village as well.
The second part of Heilige Haine will feature English and German essays on south Indian sacred groves by experts in ethnography, archaeology and theology, among others.
“We are planning to print 580 copies. Half of it will be gifted and the other half will be sold to educational institutions and libraries,” says Dr. Gottet. Sale proceeds of the self-published tome will be used in the charity clinic in Africa run by Dr. Gottet.
In addition to this, 60 4th century Hellenistic fish plates belonging to the Gottet family are on display until April 2, 2017 at the Spielzeug Welten Museum (Toy Worlds Museum) in Basle, Switzerland. The plates once belonged to Florence, Dr. Gottet’s daughter, who died of a serious illness at a tender age.
Professing a deep love the Tamil thali meal and ultra-spicy puli kozhambu (tamarind gravy), Dr. Gottet says he has found his happiest experiences in India. “We should agree that India is not only great in philosophy, but also in food,” he guffaws as he signs off.
