Hyderabad-based design house Mishru is best known for its surface textures and contemporary interpretations of Indian wear. Yet again, it proved its mastery of this craft with its recent couture edit ‘Resonance 2024/2025’ held in New Delhi.
Set against the backdrop of the stately Belgium Embassy in New Delhi, Mishru’s presentation brought alive elements of urban architecture and untamed Nature in every creation. “There’s a story behind the title, Resonance. I believe natural elements help us vibrate with higher energy,” says Swapna Anumolu, the brain behind the couture brand. “Besides Nature, old structures inspire me. During my travels, I’ve often spotted dilapidated buildings with moss creeping over them. We have tried to recreate that imagery in this edit,” she adds.
Showstopper Shraddha Kapoor with Swapna Anumolu | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Reimagining Indian couture with innovative designs, the collection includes structured pantsuits, corseted bridal lehengas, fluid cocktail dresses, jumpsuits, and a reimagined version of the sari in different proportions. Some of Mishru’s signature pieces, like mermaid-cut lehengas and short dresses, have been reinvented for a fresh look.
Swapna believes that Resonance is by far her toughest collection, in every aspect. “We have close to 60 pieces, out of which 45 were showcased on the runway. It is one of our largest and most in-depth collections that we began working on, almost a year-and-a-half ago.”
The Wrightii skirt set with cape has an organza bubble hem cape used for layering | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
As always, embroidery is at the heart of this collection. Mishru has raised the bar by experimenting with new techniques and surface embroidery. “We’ve layered a lot of different elements. This collection features a mix of 3D embroidery, vintage-inspired Parsi-Sujini techniques, and intricate jaal work,” she adds. “We’ve also introduced meta-layering of foliage within foliage — an ‘embroidered inception’ that creates a mesmerising visual effect.”
For instance, organza has been used to create abstract and asymmetrical elements akin to Nature. “One of our standout pieces, the Allium lehenga set with a cape, has an organza bubble hem cape with smocking detailing and bunches of embroidery. The corset and mermaid skirt have aari embroidery, along with French knots, beads, and sequins. It’s playful and fun,” she says.
The Cercis jacket suit | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
To add more depth, the couture brand has also dabbled with 3D elements using pearls, crystals, and the poth zardozi embroidery technique. The ivory-champagne-coloured lehenga adorned by actor Shraddha Kapoor, the showstopper for Mishru, is also making much noise for its complex layering techniques. “Her outfit features a blend of colour-shifting embroidery that includes delicate French knots and hand-embellished floral designs, which add a unique texture and richness to the fabric,” says Swapna. The corset top is hand-embroidered, with hand-cut floral and foliage elements that have been appliquéd onto its surface.
In menswear, a new take on the bandhgala — besides sheer kurtas, jacket sets, and constructed shirts — takes centre stage. Indian natural fabrics like dupioni, raw silk, and chanderi have been used liberally. However, lightness and function have not been compromised for both men and women, says Swapna. “Each ensemble holds an ephemeral quality that comes to life when laughed in, danced in, and in motion,” she shares.
The Caradonna co-ord set has an organza stole with bunches of embroidery | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The colour palette across the collection ranges from deep sapphire to ruby, pastel ombre to earthy black. “We have predominantly used evening colours, and also a bunch of nudes and ivory. This is the first time we are doing purple,” she highlights. Currently, the collection is made-to-order. By next month, Mishru plans on introducing some prêt pieces.
The brand has stores in Banjara Hills, Hyderabad, and DLF Emporio, Delhi.
Published - October 10, 2024 05:13 pm IST
