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Blend of subtle and strong spices

With the limited choice of Maharashtrian cuisine in Delhi, the best place for a taste of the region’s culinary heritage is the New Maharashtra Sadan

Published - November 14, 2024 10:20 pm IST

Roti with patodi rassa (left) and Malwani mutton

Roti with patodi rassa (left) and Malwani mutton | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

With Maharashtra heading for the polls, I was reminded of the State’s much-loved vada pav, which tends to become an issue in the elections — with all parties staking claim to that bun-and-fried potato street food item. So, with vada pav in my thoughts, I went to the New Maharashtra Sadan some days ago, hoping for a snacky meal. But when I got the aroma of an army of spices spluttering in hot oil, I decided to have lunch instead. And I am glad!

My experiences with Maharashtra Bhavan have not all been encouraging. I remember one visit several years ago to the old Maharashtra Sadan, where I was sadly offered butter chicken instead of Maharashtrian dishes. But the visit to New Maharashtra Sadan on Kasturba Gandhi Marg was happy. The Bhavan is rather grand, almost like a plush hotel. I made my way to the canteen and found that it was a large hall, well lit and airy, with comfortable chairs. I looked at the menu and found that the canteen does serve north Indian dishes such as the butter chicken, but offers many Maharashtrian favourites, too. I decided to go for a plate of Malwani mutton, patodi rassa and bajra rotis.

Roti with patodi rassa (left) and Malwani mutton at Maharashtra Sadan in Delhi

Roti with patodi rassa (left) and Malwani mutton at Maharashtra Sadan in Delhi | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

The patodi rassa is like Rajasthan’s gattey ki sabzi — steamed lentil cakes in curry. I love all versions of this dish (including the Bengali dhokar dalna), and quite enjoyed the Maharashtrian style. The tomato-based gravy was hot, but the small and square besan pieces were soft and had drawn in the flavours of the gravy and the spices.

I then tried out the mutton, and while I wouldn’t have minded a small fire extinguisher by my side, I must also admit it was quite a tasty dish, however hot. The meat was deliciously tender and juicy, and the coconut milk in the gravy complemented the spices. I lapped up the gravy with a thick bajra roti and thought it was quite a satisfying meal. However, I had ordered in a hurry, so I missed out on having one of my all-time favourite dishes — sev tomato bhaji. But there is always a next time.

Puran Poli served at Maharashtra Sadan in Delhi

Puran Poli served at Maharashtra Sadan in Delhi | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

I finished the meal with a plate of puran poli — roti or paratha smeared with gur and fried. It was just what I needed after the spicy hot meal (which cost just ₹650). It’s good to know that the canteen has many of Maharashtra’s popular dishes — including Kolhapuri chicken and fish Koliwada. The breakfast fare includes poha, batata vada and other favourites.

Of late, quite a few outlets serving Maharashtrian food have opened up. I remember the pav bhaji and missal pav I had ordered from Chilli Vada Pav in Vaishali, Ghaziabad. New Rajinder Nagar — a hub for students coming in from other states — also has a few Maharashtrian eateries, including Marathi katta. Dilli Haat, of course, has stalls that offer dishes from Maharashtra.

All eyes will be on Maharashtra for a while. My eyes, though, will be on a plate of sev tomato bhaji.

New Maharashtra Sadan on Kasturba Gandhi Marg is open all days from 7am to 11 am, 12 noon to 3pm, 3.30pm to 6.30pm; 7-10 pm. For more details, call 011-23380328

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