The Udupi handloom sari, which enjoys Geographical Indication (GI) tag, dyed using natural arecanut ‘chogaru’ is set to be launched on Monday July 31.
The ‘chogaru’ is a reddish-brown liquid obtained during the processing of arecanut. After harvesting the unripened arecanut, farmers boil the kernel or tender nuts and later dry the nuts for selling. The water thus boiled is called ‘chogaru’ in Kannada. Farmers discard or throw away this liquid.
Now Talipady Primary Weavers Service Cooperative Society Ltd., Kinnigoli, Dakshina Kannada, under the guidance of Kadike Trust, a non-government organisation based at Karkala in Udupi district, promoter of Udupi sari, has used the ‘chogaru’ for colouring the Udupi saris woven by it. The society is among the five weavers’ cooperative societies which has obtained the authorisation certificate to use the GI tag for Udupi sari.
Mamatha Rai, president, Kadike Trust, told The Hindu that arecanut ‘chogaru’ dyed saris with brown and pink shades will be launched at a function on the premises of the society at Kinnigoli on July 31. “It is for the first time arecanut ‘chogaru’ has been used for colouring Udupi sari,” she said.
In multiple shades
‘Chogaru’ is a reddish-brown liquid obtained during the processing of arecanut. Now Talipady Primary Weavers Service Cooperative Society Ltd., Kinnigoli, Dakshina Kannada, has used the ‘chogaru’ to colour the Udupi saris woven by it. | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
In addition, she said, Udupi sari naturally dyed after processing leaf of wild almond tree has been woven in yellow and black shades. The weavers of the same society have produced sari dyed using the root of ‘manjistha’ (Indian Madder), which is a climbing or scrambling herb. These saris are in orange, pink and red shades. “All the three (arecanut ‘chogaru’, leaf of wild almond tree and ‘manjistha’ root) are new natural dyes used in making of Udupi sari,” Ms. Rai said adding that the latter two will also be launched on Monday.
She said that these initiatives are expected to boost the recognition for Udupi sari further. The Udupi sari received GI tag first in 2016. The Talipady Society was the first authorised user of the GI tag for the sari. The trust arranged training programmes for weavers with the help of the National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD).
At Charaka earlier
Earlier, Charaka Women’s Multipurpose Cooperative Society, Heggodu, in Sagar taluk of Shivamogga district and some other garment makers have used arecanut ‘chogaru’ as the natural dye in their garment products.
According to the trust, the Udupi sari is woven using the best quality single ply combed cotton yarns for both warp and weft. Artificial zari or cotton yarns are used to create design in body, border and pallu portion using extra weft technique. The sari has plain or checked design in the body and dobby or plain design in the border. Light shades are used for the body, bright and contrast colours for the border and pallu.
Ms. Rai said that SELCO India has arranged solar equipment to the Talipady Society. They include dryer, pulveriser, winding device, water heater and lighting system.
Published - July 29, 2023 09:54 pm IST
